The silence of dawn is broken only by the distant chirping of birds. From the still sleeping valley shrouded in fog, a cold nighttime humidity rises, along with the scent of wood burning in a house nearby. The day promises to be typically autumnal or wintry by Italian standards. Yet, as soon as the cloud cover lifts a little, tea fields appear as far as the eye can see on the surrounding hills, along with palm and banana trees, despite the altitude of almost 2,000 meters.

Gathango Waterfalls (photo by Riccardo Zennaro)

We are in the heart of Kenya's Rift Valley, in one of the greenest, most fertile and rural parts of the country: the Aberdares Range. This area of Kenya takes its name from Lord Aberdare, president of the Royal Geographical Society in the UK at the end of the 19th century. The Aberdares are rich in biodiversity, with numerous forests, waterfalls and mountains to explore. This area is a great place to immerse yourself in nature and get away from the hustle and bustle of the capital Nairobi, just a 3-hour drive away.
In the village of Mathioya, located in Murang'a County, one of the least touristy areas of the Aberdares, the sun rarely shines in July and August. Despite the clouds, fog, and high humidity, there are plenty of opportunities to explore this area at a leisurely pace and in close contact with nature. One way to do this is to follow the water. This area is crisscrossed by numerous streams and rivers that descend from the highest mountain peaks to lower elevations among hills, dense forests, and tea fields.

Mathioya River (photo by Riccardo Zennaro)

One of these rivers is the Mathioya River, near the town of Kangema. Its waters are pure, cold, and rich in freshwater fish that can be caught. The landscape is reminiscent of North America or the Dolomites, although the red Kenyan soil immediately brings to mind the Equator. The walk winds along the riverbanks, among fig trees, tropical flowers, and the therapeutic sound of water flowing peacefully down to the valley. Natural pools invite walkers to stop for a foot bath or a refreshing dip.
In the Aberdares, following the water, you can explore numerous waterfalls. One of these is the Gatango Waterfall, near the small village of Mucharage. At the start, you leave behind the village, muffled by silence and fog that is slow to clear. The climb is challenging right from the start, winding its way up and down and through stretches of forest rich in bamboo. The footprints in the mud and a few fallen trees make it clear that this is a passageway for many of the elephants that live in the Aberdares. After almost two hours, the waterfalls open up in all their beauty.

The forest leading to the river (photo by Riccardo Zennaro)

From an altitude of about 2,700 meters, we take the return route along another trail similar to the one we took on the way up, but easier. The day is coming to an end: some people are returning home from work in the tea fields, others from a nearby soccer field. A group of women walk slowly, chatting. The air is filled with the same scent of wood as in the morning, and another night of humidity and silence descends on the Aberdares. In the evening, fatigue gives way to satisfaction and joy at having explored another hidden corner of unspoiled beauty.