Situated on the shores of the world's second largest freshwater lake, Lake Victoria, at an altitude of more than 1000 metres, the city of Kisumu, Kenya's third largest, boasts a history of international trade, a tropical climate, a good transport network and a vibrant, mainly Luo population.

History of the city

The name Kisumu literally means ‘barter place’ in the Luo language and the city is locally called ‘Kisumo’. At that time, it was the main port on Lake Victoria and was called Port Florence. Founded in the early 19th century, the city was mainly an important inland railway junction, built by Asians. At one time, Asians made up a quarter of the city's population, as evidenced by the cultural and infrastructural evidence still visible today.

Kisumu is the main city in western Kenya and is the commercial, industrial and transport centre, mainly due to its water and rail links. Formally the seat of Nyanza Province, the city has grown to become the third largest in Kenya after Nairobi and Mombasa and is now the seat of Kisumu County. Kisumu's main industries are centred on agricultural processing, fishing, brewing and the textile industry.

Lake Victoria

Discovered in the 19th century, in 1858, by the British explorer John Speke, who named it Lake Victoria in honour of Queen Victoria of England, as he was searching for the source of the Nile. At 68,800 km², it is the second largest freshwater lake in the world, surpassed in size only by Lake Superior in North America, and is the largest lake in Africa.

Fishing is the lake's main economic activity. The most popular fish in this lake is the tilapia, mainly because of its economic importance. There are another 200 fish species in the lake.

On the Kenyan side of the lake are numerous ancient islands, including Rusinga, Mfangano with its rock inscriptions and Ndere Island.

The Luo tribe

Although a multi-ethnic population, the Luo constitute the main population of Kisumu. Originating in the southern parts of what is now the Republic of South Sudan, the Luo moved along the Nile and settled on the shores of Lake Victoria in the Gulf of Winam. Popularly, they are called ‘Nilotes of the river and lake’. Their mother tongue is known as Dholuo.

It is from this tribe that the famous legend of Lwanda Magere, a film released in 2020, originates. Folklore spoke of this mighty warrior of superhuman strength who, on the shores of Lake Victoria, would single-handedly fight the tribe's enemies. Other prominent figures with roots in the Luo tribe include Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong'o and the 44th President of the United States of America, Barack Obama.

Gastronomy

Due to its proximity to Lake Victoria and the rivers that flow into it, such as the Yala, Nyando and Nzoia rivers, fish (rech in Dholuo) was and still is the most popular dish among the Luo and in the city of Kisumu. The most popular species is tilapia (ngege in Dholuo). Traditionally, the Luo men went fishing in the lake, while the women stayed at home (‘dala’ in Dholuo) to look after the farms and children. Fish is prepared in three ways: boiled, smoked or roasted. It is then served with ‘Kuon’ (ugali in Swahili, a type of stiff porridge made from maize, sorghum, cassava, millet or a mixture of the two flours).

Other accompaniments are fresh vegetables, both wild and cultivated, such as ‘dek’, ‘apoth’, ‘mito’ and ‘osuga’. In the city of Kisumu, a meal of fried tilapia and kuon is very popular. The meal consists of fried tilapia, ‘kuon’ and fresh cooked vegetables (‘alot’). A more modern option still retains the idea of the traditional meals of the Luo ethnic tribes.

The city of Kisumu has a solid road network connecting it to the surrounding urban centres. Buses, ‘matatus’ (vans) and taxis are the main means of road transport to and within Kisumu city. Other means are ‘bodaboda’ motorbikes.

Air transport is provided by Kisumu International Airport, with regular daily flights to other destinations in the country.

Kisumu is served by an international airport, Kisumu International Airport, with regular daily flights to other destinations in the country. The airport is served by a dual highway that allows for quicker and easier access. Taxis are readily available at the airport.

For the more adventurous visitor, there is a 13-hour train journey between Nairobi and Kisumu that allows one to admire the varied Kenyan landscape throughout the journey, including the Great Rift Valley. The 217-kilometre route includes 18 stations, 46 bridges and 27 viaducts.

Ferry service

These are traditional steam and diesel-powered vessels that are used to transport goods and passengers between Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya on Lake Victoria, at the ports of Kisumu, Mwanza, Bukoba, Entebbe, Port Bell and Jinja. Journeys take between 13 and 19 hours between ports. The advantage is that the most common railway lines terminate at these ports, thus enabling cheaper freight services.

Climate

Kisumu is a tropical climate zone that has the added advantage of being bordered by Lake Victoria. It is hot and cloudy, with temperatures rarely below 61°F or above 93°F. The coverage of the sky by clouds varies seasonally throughout the year: April is the cloudiest month, while August is the clearest. The probability of rainy days in Kisumu City varies throughout the year, with April having the most rainy days. However, regular cool breezes from Lake Victoria and random downpours make life pleasant in the lake city.