SLOW FOOD
19-09-2023 by Freddie del Curatolo
Those who have been following us for some time know that we often cover the flavors of this wonderful land, Kenya and describe the taste, properties and combinations of some local fruits and products.
But we are not the only ones, indeed there are those who by trade go around the world looking for unique foods or preparations, protect their tradition and culture and create "food presidia." This is Slow Food, the international association for the pleasure of gluttony, created by Carlo Petrini and supported by the Gastronomic University of Pollenzo.
One of Kenya's "Slow Food presidia" is ash yogurt from Western Pokot.
In the region to the north of the country, not far from the border with Uganda and especially in the foothills of Mount Elgon, communities in the area of Tartar and the waterfalls of the same name produce a very special food, a yogurt fermented with goat's milk and mixed with the resinous ash of the local tree called Kromwa (in botany, "ozoroa insignis"). In Swahili it is simply called "mala ya kienyeji," or local yogurt, or "kamabele kambou." This is not a food created out of whimsy, as one might imagine regarding poor lands where food has primarily the meaning of sustenance. In fact, the ash, combined with milk, has disinflammatory power.
As they explain from Slow Food, "ash yogurt was of extreme importance in the diet of the Pokot community and, in particular, was one of the main foods for herders in search of pasture. Today, grazing is less common and, as a result, the availability of milk has decreased, resulting in a drastic reduction in yogurt production. In addition, communities have rapidly lost pride in their food culture. Yogurt is now produced by only a few households for private consumption, and only occasionally is the surplus sold in local markets. Yogurt with ash - made from raw milk - has a smooth, thick but fluid consistency. Two different varieties of yogurt are made from cow's and goat's milk - which are processed separately: the first is reserved for men, the second - with an intense flavor and renowned for its nutritional value - for women and children.
The taste of yogurt also varies depending on the duration of fermentation. The animals are pasture-fed, and milking is done manually twice a day. The milk is collected in calabash, traditional containers made from gourds of the gourd variety, and allowed to stand for at least three days. These gourds-which have a very hard skin-are hollowed out inside, dried and smoked over kromwo wood, the same tree from which the ash is made. Once the whey is drained, the containers are closed and shaken with regular movements. When the yogurt is ready, the ash is added, which, in addition to its disinfectant power, improves the taste (giving an aromatic note) and imparts a characteristic light gray color.
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